Cheek parts

The Cheek parts is made of 2 mm mild steel and streched out a bit on the anvil. All the forming is made from the inside.

Left Cheek

To be able to create a circular bottom line I use a circular disk as a guide.

4 mm thick circular disc 15,5 cm diameter.
Cheek parts bolted on to the helmet

On the original you can se holes on the helmet matching holes on the cheekparts. I think the parts has been riveted together when the final shape has been done.

Disc inside and the helmet is redy for the forge
Now the parts are fitting each other well
Just some smaller adjustment before I can start the visor.

The comb

Now the comb is raised and sharpened on the comb stake. I am very carefull with the hammer when I have a lot of heat in the top of the comb, but i do most of the shaping when the metal is hot to avoid stressing the material. Smaller adjustments and planishing I do cold.

The comb stake (helmet for size comparence).
Comb stake

Helmet, raising the comb

The stake anvil for the helmet woorks really well

After streching the helmet from the inside I have now raised it from the outside. when i was pleased with the hight and the side silhouette from the side I started to mark out the position of the comb

The skull compared with the original
I use soapstone wich is heat resistant and easy to see on the dark surface.

Then i heat the helmet skull on the forge and start to push in material on each side of the comb on a rounded stake. This way prevents the material to strech out to much and get to thin.

The stake I use at first.

After two heatings
Working up the comb

I try to work as much ad possible “on air” to prevent the material to get thin. Here i´m still working on the small ball stake pushing the material together. It´s quite easy using this metod on thiker plate. Next step is to sharpen the comb, and that you can se in the youtube movie posted earlier.

Bashing out material

On next helmet I decided to go for thicker plate again, I was not pleased with the way the surface on the inside looked on the 3mm helmet mostly raised from the outside. The hammermarks did not looked the same as on king Eriks XIV:shelmet. So the first thing I did was to reshape the long stretching hammer so it got a more rounded head with smaller radius. Then I started with a piece of 4 mm mild steel measuring 40×35 cm. With cut corners on the side that will be the neck on the helmet.

Then I stretched the part that will be the forehead of the helmet. And worked around all sides.

This flat stretching I did on a modern flat anvil with a big stretching/raising hammer.

Now I have stretched out 6 cm on the length and 4 cm on the with. When I was pleased with the thickness of the flat stretching, approximately 2,5 mm. I started to heat and raise the helmet from the inside with the longer more rounded hammer.

Still on the flat anvil.

It is quite easy to control how much you want the material to move and I’m much more pleased with the look of the inside surface. I continued with this method until I had reached the length of 50 cm on the outside.

The result so far is much more promising than earlier.

Helmet, inside

You can clearly se the hammermarks of a round hammer, that have been used from the inside quite late in the shaping process of the helmet. if it had been forged more from the outside the hammermarks wold not have been so “sharp” as they still are.

inside of Erik XIV helmet LRK 2610


LRK 2610

It´s mabye hard to se, but the difference is quite clear when looking at it in real life.

Inside helmet test number 2